The Mountain of God
Photography
In Tanzania
 
Cheetah, Strangling a Thompsons Gazelle

Wildlife

There are innumerable places to go for wildlife photography.  The most popular are:

Serengeti National Park
The most famous game park in the world.  You can see just about everything here.  Gnus (wildebeest), Zebra and Gazelle are in great abundance.  The big cats (lions, cheetah and leopard) are also well represented here.  You will almost assuredly see lions, and if your driver/tracker is skilled enough, you will also see cheetah.  The wildebeest migration of the Serengeti is one of life's great dramas and it provides the framework in which all other wildlife interaction takes place.  Lion prides go hungry for months at a time, territories shift, hyenas follow the gnus.  Virtually no part of life in the Serengeti is untouched by the migration.

Elephants are not found in large numbers in the Serengeti.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

A World Heritage Site.  Chances are, if you have watched a documentary on African wildlife, it was probably filmed here.  Ngorongoro crater is called the Noah's Ark of Africa.  The crater is teeming with every kind of wildlife.  Most people compare it to a Zoo, since you can park your land rover in one place, and see black rhinos and buffalo out one side of the truck, wildebeest and elephant in another direction, lions in another, and cheetahs in another.

Seriously, if you spend a full day at Ngorongoro crater and don't see rhinos, lions, hyenas, elephants, buffalo, and hippos, you should shoot your driver!   

Lake Manyara National Park

There is a pride of lions here that is famous for climbing trees.  To be honest, I have never spoken to anyone who has actually seen one of the "Tree Climbing Lions of Manyara".  But the rumour of them has spread, and Lake Manyara National Park is now a must-see location on the safari circuit.  The location of Lake Manyara, halfway between Arusha and Ngorongoro, is the more likely reason why safari operators spend a day here.  It's an uncomfortable eight hour drive from Arusha to the Serengeti, and Lake Manyara is a good place to stop and take a breather.

Other wildlife includes:  elephant, buffalo, wildebeest, hippos, hyenas, gazelles.

Tarangire National Park

Elephants are the wildlife attraction here.  This park is due South from Arusha, and is not on the road from Arusha to the Serengeti.  As such, it is a less popular destination.  Supposedly, Tarangire has a lot of baobob trees, and if you're looking for that "typical" African landscape, this is an ideal place to come.

Arusha National Park

Elephants, giraffes and buffalo.  This small park has a dense population of wildlife.  Similar to Ngorongoro crater, Arusha N.P is a self-contained ecosystem that has natural boundaries to protect the animals.  Most people come to Arusha N.P to climb Mt. Meru.  Due to the large number of elephants and buffalo, climbers must have an armed ranger with them at all times.  We saw evidence of Buffalo at 12,000 ft. ASL.

Zanzibar and Pemba Islands

Vast, heretofore untouched coral reefs.  The north and east shores of Zanzibar, and the entire shorline of Pemba support shallow reefs with excellent visibility.  Due to the wonderfully warm temperature of the Indian Ocean water, even my wife enjoyed diving there.

Selous Game Reserve

The largest game reserve in the world.  It's remoteness makes it an expensive, and little-visited park.  But this reserve is the motherlode of all wildlife parks.  Conservative estimates put the elephant population between 30,000 and 50,000.  Other wildlife, such as lions, leopards, buffalo and giraffe are also very common.

The Selous is not a national park.  It is a game reserve.  What this means, is that nature photographers will have to share space with hunters, who pay as much as $20,000 per person to hunt a lion, an elephant or a buffalo.  Before you protest the horrible injustice of destroying paradise with a rifle, keep in mind that Tanzania is one of the poorest countries on earth, and hunting tourism is a highly regulated industry.  The extremely high fees associated with hunting in the Selous help feed tens of thousands of people in Tanzania who would otherwise starve.  In fact, the Selous is situated in prime agricultural land, that could be cleared for sugar cane or coffee plantations (cash crops), if the Tanzanian government wasn't so supportive of self-sufficient eco-tourism.

In short, without hunting, the Selous--and every creature within it--wouldn't exist. 

Mkuzi National Park

Stradling the road from Dar Es Salaam to Mbeya, Mkuzi is not a popular game park.  Zebra, giraffe, elephant, gazelle, and buffalo can all be seen here.  There are two reasons for the small crowds:  Mkuzi is truly in the middle of nowhere, and there is not a large population of big cats or hyena.

Landscapes

Landscapes in Tanzania vary dramatically.  The stark landscape of the Maasai lands.  The harsh realm on top of Kilimanjaro.  The forests at its base.  The grasslands of the Serengeti.

The endless plains of the Serengeti can be very difficult to capture on film.  To make matters worse, you must be in your campsite or lodge by sundown, which makes it difficult to capture that "typical" african vista: the telephoto shot of the setting sun behind a baobob or an acacia tree.  To capture this, you will have to either get special permission from the park superintendent, or--more likely--spend some time in the Maasai lands which are not governed by parks administration.

The Maasai lands between Arusha and Ngorongoro, North of the main road are incredibly beautiful.  Here, in the shadow of Oldonya L'Engai and near Lake Natron, you are at the heart of the Great Rift Valley, which runs from Malawi to Syria.  The soda lakes, such as Lake Manyara and Lake Natron, are a sight to see, and they are perfect breeding grounds for the flamingos.  Baobabs and acacia trees dot the landscape, interspersed between giant volcanic craters and ash cones.  The land is very dry here.

Mt. Kilimanjaro has some beautiful landscapes.  The highlight of my photographic career occured at 16,000ft at Arrow Glacier Hut.  I met David Breshears at the campsite, and he invited me to take some pictures with him of the western breach at sunset.  He told me that the Great Barranco is the most photogenic place on the mountain.  Next time I climb Kili, I will make a point to cross the Barranco Valley.  But the western breach is beautiful in the evening light.  However, there is not much to see at the summit, besides the marker that indicates that you are at the highest point in Africa.

I travelled much too quickly through Southern Tanzania, but the mountains South of Mkuzi National Park were quite nice.  You can also reach the shores of Lake Malawi in Tanzania, where the Rift Valley mountains fall abruptly into the lake.  The lanscape is highly forested and tropical here.


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